Use this glossary to quickly look up ingredients and professional skin care terms. Tap a letter in the table of contents to jump to that section.

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A

Acetyl Glutamul Heptapeptide-1:

Acetyl Hexapeptite (Argireline®): A neuropeptide derived from natural proteins that is proven to reduce up to 30% the depth of the wrinkles in the face caused by the contraction of the muscles of facial expression, especially around the eyes, forehead and mouth region. This 6 amino acid chain works by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters which relax facial muscle contractions without paralyzing facial muscles.

Achillea millefolium (Yarrow): Anti-inflammatory, astringent, and anti-irritant.
Source: plant

Acrylates/C10-30: Conditioner.

Agave Tequiliana var. Weber Leaf Extract: Exhibits skin soothing properties, especially beneficial to ease the discomfort of a sun burn. Historically used to clear blemishes, soothe itches and maintain healthy skin.

Alchemilla vulgaris (Lady’s Mantle) Extract: Anti-microbial

Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer:

Alcohol – denatured (SD-40): Non-drying denatured alcohol used to emulsify fats (a solvent). Antiseptic, astringent, antibacterial.

Allantoin: Extract of comfrey. See Symphytum officinale

Aloe barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf: Assists in pain relief and reducing inflammation, re-hydrates and improves the skin’s natural UV absorption capabilities. Prevents immune suppression caused by UVB by repairing damage to epidermal cells.

Alchemilla vulgaris (Lady’s Mantle) Extract: Antibacterial/anti-acne.

Allantoin: See Symphytum officinale.

Alpha-Arbutin (Uva urs): Inhibits tyrosinase to limit the production of melanin, provides natural skin lightening.
Source: Bearberry

Ammonium Hydroxide: pH adjuster used in AHA products.

Ammonium Laureth Sulfate: A surfactant/detergent cleansing agent.

Apricol (Prunus armeniaca) Kernal Oil: An emollient, softening.

Arachidonic Acid: Emollient, thickening agent.
Source: Omega-6 phospholipids and fatty acids

Arachidyl Propionate: Emollient, thickening agent, emulsifier.

Arnica montana (Arnica): Nourishing, anti-inflammatory, helps reduce brusing.

Ascorbic Acid: Effective antioxidant. Assists in collagen synthesis and provides protection against damage induced by UV radiation. Improves kin elasticity, decreases wrinkles, reduces erythema, promotes wound healing, and suppresses pigmentation. Water-soluble.

Avena sativa (Colloidal) Oat Flour: Anti-irritant, antioxidant; contains beta glucans.

Azelaic acid: This 5a-reductase inhibits tyrosinase activity and effective in the treatment of hyperpigmentation and melasma. As an anti-keratinizing agent, it is used for the treatment of comedonal and inflammatory acne. It reduces bacteria growth in the follicles and also reduces oxidative stress.

Azulene: Soothing, Calming.
Source: Chamomile

B

Bentonite: A mineral rich natural clay that absorbs excess oil and reduces surface shine provides soothing and healing benefits, re-mineralized the skin.

Benzyl Alcohol: Used as a preservative with anti-bacterial qualities, pH adjuster, and solvent.

BHT: Antioxidant.
Source: Butylated hydroxtoluene, a synthetic antioxidant.

Bromelain: Enzyme that has kerotlytic properties, dissolving cellular debris.
Source: Pineapple

Butyrospermum parkii (Shea butter): Alleviates dryness, regenerative, reduces solar erythema, provides antioxidant protection, soothes superficial epidermal layers.
Source: Shea butter plant

Butylene Glycol: A humectant and solubilzer.

C

C13-14 Isoparraffin: Thickener, emulsifier.
Source: petrolatum

Camellia sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract: Rich in polyphenols such as EGCG that inhibits oxidative stress; reduces inflammation, inhibits destructive enzymes that breaks down collagen.

Carica papaya (pepain): Proteolytic enzyme that softens and exfoliates the skin.

Calcium Ascorbate: Referred to as Ester-C, it is a stable form of vitamin C.

Carthamus tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil: Rich in fatty acids such as oleic acid and contains vitamin E. Retains moisture in the skin and supports rebuilding of the acid mantle.

Cinnamomum camphora (Camphor): Cooling, soothing, anti-inflammatory and antiseptic.
Source: Tree

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: Increases skins permeability to encourage ingredient permeability and spreadability of a product.
Source: Coconut milk fatty acids.

Caprylyl Glycol: A broad spectrum preservative with bactericidal and hydrating properties. Protects against microbes and yeast.
Source: Coconut.

Carbomer 940: A white, fluffy powder that is mixed in gels. An emulsifier.

Castor oil: See Ricinus communis

Ceramides: A skin identical Alpha-linoleic acid that supports the repair of an impaired acid mantle and lipid-dry skin. When the protective layer is intact, 50% of the skin’s protective layer is composed of ceramides.

Cetyl Alcohol: Natural alcohol acts as a carrier agent and emollient.
Source: Coconut

Cetyle Dimethicone: Silicone polymer that functions as a skin conditioning agent.

Chamomilla recutia (Matricaria) Chamomile: Exhibits anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing and antibacterial properties. Used on rashes, acne, eczema, psoriasis, hypersensitive skin and allergic conditions, sunburns, arthritis and rheumatism.

Cholesterol: An emulsifier and stabilizer.

Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) Peel Oil: Naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acids to support smoother skin. Skin conditioning.

Cinnamomum zeylanicum (Cinnamon) Oil: Topical analgsic properties to soothe skin irritations.
Source: Leaf oil

Citric Acid: Slows oxidation process, naturally adjusts the pH of products, improves brightness and coloration.

Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orange) Peel oil: Has soothing, anti-inflammatory astringent properties.

Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil: Naturally occurring alpha hydroxy acids help promote smoother skin by increasing desquamation; astringent properties. Tones and tightens the skin and helps to increase blood circulation.

Citrus paridisi (Citrus [grapefruit?] Seed) Extract: Astringent.

Clove Oil: see Eugenia caryophyllus

Cocamidopropyl Betaine: Mild surfactant that doesn’t irritate the skin or mucous membranes; has antiseptic properties.
Source: Coconut oil.

Cocoamphodiacetate: A surfactant produced on the basis of fatty acids.
Source: Coconut oil.

Cocos nucifera (Coconut) Oil: Moisturzing and promotes circulation and healthy cell growth.

Coconut Oil Castile: A semi-solid fat expressed from coconuts that is used as an emollient in making natural soaps. The word “castile” simply refers to being classified as a mild soap.

Coenzyme Q10: Antioxidant and provides protection against UVA-induced detrimental effects of photoaging. Helps protect the lipid bilayers.
Source: Ubiquinone

Colloidal Oat Flour: See Avena sativa.

Cucumis sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract: Astringent, anti-inflammatory, anti-pruritic, contains flavonoids.
Source: Cucumber

Cyclomethicone: A silicone used to deliver smooth, silky texture without oily residue.

Cymbopogon schoenanthus (Lemon Grass) Oil: Antioxidant, antiviral, antibacterial, helps normalize sebum production.

D

D-alpha-tocopherol: Vitamin E, fat soluble antioxidant that protects from oxidative stress.

Deionized Water: Similar to distilled water and used as a purified water. The lack of ions causes the water’s resistivity (resistivity to an electrical flow) to increase. Ultra-pure deionized water can have a theoretical maximum resistivity up to 1000 times greater than common tap water. This means thae pure deionized water is theoretically up to 1000 times more soluble than common tap water.

Dextran (sugar): Polysaccharides than bind water to improve hydration.

Dipeptide Diaminobutyrol Benzylamide Diacetate: A synthetic peptide capable of relaxing facial expression wrinkles by inhibiting muscle contraction. (Imitates the activity of Waglerin 1, a protein found in the venom of the Temple Viper, which inhibits neuromuscular communication.

Diazolidinyl Urea: Broad spectrum preservative used in cosmetics.

Dimethicone: A silicone that conditions and protects the skin.

Dimethicone Crosspolymer: Conditions and protects the skin.

Dioscorea villosa (Wild Yam) Root: Source of diosginin, a phytosterol that provides anti-inflammatory and antispasmodic properties.

Disodium Cocamphodiacetate: A mild surfactant.
Source: Coconut oil.

Disodium EDTA: A chelating agent that is a water-soluble compound. Chemically neutralizes metallic ions, which are introduced to filled products by unclean fingertips. Prevents growth of microorganisms.

DMDM Hydantoin: Antimicrobial preservative.

E

Elaeis guineensis (Palm) Oil: A mixture of fatty acids that helps condition the skin; emollient.

Ethanol, organic: Anti-bacterial.

Ethylhexiglycerin: Conditioning agent, preservative.

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil: Contains anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antiviral, astringent and cicatrisant properties. Used for burns, blisters, herpes, cuts, wounds, skin infections, and insect bites.

Eugenia caryophyllus (Clove) Oil: Soothing agent and antiseptic.

Evening Primrose Oil: See Oenothera biennis

F

FD&C Color: Colorants approved by the FDA and considered safe for food and cosmetic products.

G

Ginseng: See Panax ginseng root extract

Glucose: Humectant.

Glycolic Acid: An alpha hydroxy acid that promote desquamation in the stratum corneum layers of the skin.

Glycerin: Softens and smoothes the skin; humectant that draws moisture from the air to keep skin moist; emollient the lubricates and prevents moisture loss; emulsifier (thickening agent).

Glyceryl Stearate: Lubricates the skin surface, emulsified oils and liquids, soften the skin, attracts moisture from the atmosphere, an ingredient stabilizer.
Source: Vegetable fatty acids.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein: Contains antixodant and MMPI (Matrix Metallpoprotease Inhibitor) and workds to inhibit skin matrix breakdown. Stress (environmental or otherwise), UV exposusre and other types of inflammation cause the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the dermal matrix by collagenase and elastase (MMPs). Inhibiting these Matrix Metalloproteases helps to reduce the breakdown of the dermal structures and strengths the natural barrier.

Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil: Emollient, rich in vitamin E. See above for complete list of properties of soy.

Glycol Distearate: Thickening agent.
Source: glycerin and natural fatty acids.

Grapefruit Oil: See Citrus Grandis

Green Tea Extract: See Camellia sinensis

H

Hamamelis virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract: Astringent; pain-killer; effective for bruises and inflammatory swellings.
Source: Tree

Honeysuckle: See Lonicera Japonica

Hyaluronic Acid: See Sodium hyaluronate

Hydroxyethylcellulose: A thickening agent.

I

Isoparaffin: Emollient, thickening agent.
Source: Mineral oil

Isopropyl Palmitate: An emollient and moisturizer.
Source: Coconut oil.

Isopropyl Alcohol (SD-40): A group of organic compounds that have a vast range of forms and uses in cosmetics. In benign form they are glycols used as humectants that help deliver ingredients to the ski. When fats and oils are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alchohols that can have emollient properties or become detergent cleansing agents.

J

Jojoba: See Simmondsia chinensis

K

Kojic Acid (5-hydoxy-4-pyran-4-one-2-methyl): A tyrosinase inhibitor and scavenges reactive oxygen species.

Kumquat Oil: Fragrance

L

Lanolin Oil: Emollient, soothing.

L-Lactic Acid: An AHA the supports desquamation in the corneum layers of the skin.
Source: Milk, yoghurt

Lauryl Isoquinolinium Bromide: Laureth-7

Lavandula angustifolia (Lavender) Oil: Anti-inflammatory, promotes cell regeneration, wound-healing, antiseptic, antibacterial.

Lecithin: An emulsifying agent.

Lemon Grass: See Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil

Linolenic Acid: Unsaturated fatty acid belonging to the class of Omega-3 fatty acids. It has emollient, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and reparative properties.

Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Exract: Anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic, anti-bacterial.

M

Macrocystis pyrifer (Antartic Seaweed): Antixodant, anti-inflammatory,

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP): A highly stable, water-soluble (hydrophilic) derivative for vitamin C; improves collagen synthesis, prevents oxidative stress, and is considered a tyrosinase inhibitor.

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate:

Malto Dextrin:

Malva sylvestris (Mallow) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract: Emollient, stimulates moisturd balance and has anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and calming properties.

Manganese Chloride: Antimicrobial.

Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree): Antimicrobial, antiseptic, antiviral, bactericide, fungicide.
Source: Tree, Australia

Melissa officinalis (Balm mint): Antiviral; antiseptic, anti-infection.
Source: Lemon balm leaves.

Mentha piperita (Peppermint) Oil: Provides astringent actions, anti-spasmodic, soothes and cools the skin, assists in heali

Methylparaben: A preservative

Methyl Gluceth-20:

Methylparaben: Preservative

Morus Bombycis (White Mulberry) Root Extract: Has whitening abilities; tyrosinase inhibitor.

Myristyl Ether Propionate:

N

Neopentylglycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate:

Niacinamide: Vitamin B3; improves cellular respiration, regulates the release of energy, metabolices carbohydrates, fats, and proteins; improves microcirculation. In formulation it is effective for treating moderate inflammatory acne grade 3. It has anti-inflammatory properties.

O

Octyldodecanol:

Octyl Methoxycinnamate: An organic compound primarily used in sunscreens and other cosmetics to absorb ultra-violet B radiation.

Octyl Salicylate: A salt of salicylic acid occurring in wintergreen leaves and other plants. A sun chemical that acts as a UVB screen, a preservative and an antimicrobial.

Oleth-2:

Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil: Contains high amounts of gamma linoleic acid (GLA), an essential fatty acid for normal functioning of the epithelial barrier membrane. Helps improve skin hydration and helps repair the barrier function.

Orange Flower Neroli:

Oryza sativa bran: Natural plant derived protein, anti-oxidant, with superior water binding properties.

Oxybenzone: An organic sun protector.

P

Palm Oil: See Elaeis guineensis

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide-3: An amino-peptide that temporarily limits the release of neurotransmitters that control the intensity of facial muscle contractions. Stimulates collagen.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3: Disrupts the nerve signals and suppresses chemical messengers (interleukins) that trigger inflammation.

Panthenol: Appears to stimulate cellular proliferation and aid in tissue repair. When applied to the skin, it converts to vitamin B5. Possibly helps to influence the skin’s natural resources of pantothenic acid. It is nonirritating, non-sensitizing, moisturizing, and conditioning. Promotes normal keratinization and wound healing.

Panax ginseng (Ginseng) Root Extract: An adaptogenic and restorative herb that is an immuno stimulant.

Papain (Papaya): See Carica papaya

Passiflora laurifolia (Passionflower) Flower: Analgesic, anti-irritant and sedative.

PCA: See sodium PCA

PEG-100:

Pentapeptide-3:

Piperita (Peppermint) Extract: Imparts cooling effect on the skin, increases circulation, stimulates nerve endings, and relieves pain inflammation. Posses natural antiseptic and antibacterial properties.

Phenoxyethanol: Broad spectrum preservative derived from grain. It is an organic chemical compound, glycol either, derived from sage essential oil.

Phytic Acid: Natural antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties.

Polyacrylamide:

Polyacrylate 13: An emulsifying agent.

Polysorbate 20: An oil-in-water emulsifier.

Polysorbate-80: An oil-in-water emulsifier

Polysobutene:

Polyquaternium-37:

Potassium Sorbate: A paraben-free natural preservative.

PPG-2:

Primula veris (Primula) Extract:

Propylene Glycol: A humectant

Propylparaben: Preservative

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract: A hair growth retardent.

Pyruvic Acid: A molecular constituent generated from the action of glycolysis during the generation of ATP in the mitochondria inside the cell. Pyruvate is converted into lactic acid. It stimulates collagen and elastin and dermal glycoproteins when applied topically; also contains antiseptic properties.

Q

Quaternium-10: Preservative

Quaternium-15: Preservative

R

Retinyl Palmitate: Considered a retinoid, retinol converts to retinoic acid once inside the skin. It has less irritating and greater penetration abilities. Vitamin A is necessary for cell regeneration and regulation.

Resorcinol:

Retinol: See Retinyl palmitate and also Vitamin A

Rice bran: see Oryza sativa

Ricinus communis (Castor) Seed Oil: Humectant, emollient, water-binding, and rich in glycerides of fatty acid ricinoleic.
Source: Caster bean.

Rosemarinus officinalis (Rosemary): Astringent, antiseptic, stimulating, increases circulation.

Rosehip Seed Oil: Emollient oil extract from the fruits of the species of wild roses. Contains vitamin C and is supportive to aging skin.

S

Safflower Oil: see Carthamus Tinctorius

Salvia officinalis (Sage) Oil: Purifying, astringent, antibacterial.
Source: Plant

Salcylic Acid: Lipid soluble beta hydroxy acid with keratolytic, anti-microbial, lipid soluble, anti-inflammatory, anti-eczemic, anti-seborrheic properties. It is a chemical trap for free radicals and is able to penetrate the follicle to exfoliate the buildup of lipid debris. Salicylic acid is best on acne-prone and sensitive skin types. As an exfoliant, salicylic acid can increase the benefits of other therapies used in conjunction with it. For acne prone skin, retinol makes a good adjunct therapy for salicylic acid.

Santalum austrocaledonicum (Sandalwood) Oil: Soothes, moisturizes dry skin, antiseptic and astringent for oily skin and acne.
Source: Sandalwood tree (India)

Saxifraga sarmentosa Extract: Natural brightening properties.

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract: Anti-oxidant, astringent.

Seaweed Extract: (What is the source?? Botanical name… laminaria???)

Shea Butter: see Butyrospermum parkii)

Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Oil: Emollient ester with excellent spreading, lubricating and penetrating qualities. Used in pharmaceutical preparations to treat eczema, acne, and dandruff. Humectant, emollient, and moisturizing.
Source: Expressed or extracted from the seeds of the desert shrub.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: A stable vitamin C derivative protecting cells from oxidative stress (free radicals), helps suppress pigmentation, stimulates collagen synthesis. Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is converted to free vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin only upon penetration.

Sodium Benzoate: A broad-spectrum preservative.

Sodium Borate: A preservative, antiseptic, fungicide.

Sodium EDTA: A chelating agent that is a water-soluble compound. Chemically neutralizes metallic ions, which are introduced by unclean fingertips. Prevents growth of microorganisms.

Sodium Hyaluronate: A polymer of dissacharides that are composed of D-gluronic acid, hyaluron is a glyosaminoglycan (GAGs) found naturally in the connective tissue, epithelial and neural tissues. Supports moisture content in skin.

Sodium Hydroxide: An alkaline salt obtained when electrolysis (positive and negative poles) is applied to seawater or salt water. It is used to modify the pH of acidic materials due to its high alkalinity. It is placed into some skin cleansers in very small amounts, however, it can be a significant skin irritant if used in higher amounts.

Sodium Lactate: Sodium salt of lactic acid. Used primarily as a water-binding and buffering agent (a pH adjuster).

Sodium Metabisulfite:

Sodium Oleate: An emulsifier for oil-in-water formulations.

Sodium PCA: Salt of glutamic acid, an amino acid that occurs widely in food. Acts as a humectant for the skin.

Sodium Sorbate: A preservataive.

Sorbitol: Moisture binder.

Soy flour: See glycine soya

Soy bean oil: See Glycine soja

Symphytum officinale (Comfrey): Allantoin is an extract of this botanical. Assists with cell proliferation, healing and moisturizing properties. Anti-inflammatory, epithelization stimulant, clears away necrotic tissue and accelerates growth of healthy new tissue. Skin protectant. Free-radical scavenger.
Source: Comfrey root (or can also be bioengineered from uric acid).

Stearic Acid: A saturated fatty acid derived from vegetable oils, used for a carrier for absorption.

Squalane: Emollient, moisturizing, protects the barrier function, antioxidant, and mimics the squalane properties found in the skin.
Source: Olivez

Sweet Almond Oil:

T

Talc: Natural occurring silicate mineral.

Tea Tree Oil: See Melaleuca alternifolia

Thymol (Thymus vulgaris): A phenolic compound found in thyme oil with antimicrobial and anti-bacterial properties.

Titanium Dioxide: Physically shields the skin from UV exposure, disperses/reflects UV rays away from the skin.

Tocopherol Acetate (D-alpha): Oil soluble vitamin E, protects the cell membrane from lipid peroxidation.

Tocotriienols: A term that refers to vitamin E, a phytonutrient consisting of with naturally occurring isomers, a family of four tocopherols (alpha, beta, gamma, and dela) and four tocotrienols (alpha, beta, gamma and delta) homologues.

Tridecyl Trimellitate: Emulsifier, thickening agent.

V

Vaccinium macrocarpon (Cranberry) fruit extract: Astringent, antimicrobial.

Vaccinium myritillus extract:

Vanilla Planifoliar fuirt oil: Frangrance

Veronica officinalis (Speedwell herb) Extract: An astringent. (This needs to be checked for accuracy)

Vitamin A: Designated as an epithelium-protecting factor, it regulates skin hornification, promotes cell regeneration, encourages mitosis and prevents atrophy in aging. Skin. Vitamin A is essential for proper formation of body tissue, especially the skin, mucous membranes, and anything that lines the inside or outside of the body. Deficiency leads to follicular hyperkeratosis (flakiness); keratin deposits in the follicles that appear as hard goose bumps.

Vitamin C: Necessary for proper formation of collagen, the primary constituent of one, cartilage, and connective tissue. Important for growth and repair of tissue cells, gums, blood vessels, bones, teeth, and for absorption of iron. When topically applied, it is a powerful antioxidant and protects the skin’s immune system.

Vitamin E: See D-alpha tocopherol – Vitamin E protects the linoleic fatty acids from oxidation making them active. Enhances elasticity of the connective tissue and is important for collagen metabolism in the epidermis. Improves cells’ metabolism and increases skin’s ability to hold moisture. Has a normalizing influence on the microcirculation. An antioxidant for premature aging, it develops a biochemical protective effect against free radicals (oxidative stress). Has moisture-retention abilities and smoothes the surface of the skin.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape): Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

X

Xanthan Gum: Natural thickening agent made from fermented sugar.

Xylitol:

Xylitylglucoside:

Y

Wild Yam: (see Dioscorea villosa)

Yucca schidigera Leaf/Root/Stem Extract (Yucca): Exhibits anti-inflammatory and antiviral activity.

Wheat Germ (Triticum vulgare) Oil Castile: Extracted from the embryo of the wheat kernel, it contains anti-inflammatory and nourishing properties with its high vitamin E content.

Z

Zinc Oxide: Provides chemical and physical protection from sun exposure (UVA, UVB).